This is a recap of my journey with my farourite images and videos.
St. Margaret’s to Calais
Squirrel in St Margaret of Antioch churchBeach at St. Margaret’s BaySt. Margaret’s BayBig boat small boatSycamoreWheat into the distanceWhat lies ahead?My ferry approaching Dover port… and entering the port (look closely and you can see France on the other side)The white cliffsCharles et Yvonne De GaulleThe DragonThe Burghers of Calais by Auguste Rodin
Day 1 – Calais to Koksijde
Barley fieldsKeeping one eye on the kids
Day 2 – Koksijde to Eeklo
Mother coot and cootlingsRiver bank in the springGrey heronPoplar tunnel
Day 3 – Eeklo to Antwerp
The Big CanalsTrams and roundabouts Antwerp
Day 4 – Antwerp to Dordrecht
Great cormorantIndustry in full steamDordrecht old centreEngland is never far awayWhere to park?Flying the flagThe race is on!Concentric circles
Day 5 – Dortrecht to Amsterdam
Inland cargo boatGrey heron posing
Day 6 – rest day in Amsterdam
Nele, Charles Samuel, c. 1894 – c. 1898 – RijksmuseumDiaphanorama of Rome burning – RijksmuseumKey – RijksmuseumLock and key – Rijksmuseum
Day 7 – Amsterdam to The Hague
The HagueThe Hague skylineBicycle park The Hague
Day 8 The Hague to Middelburg
Flying the flagsBack gardensThe odd one outThe dunesDistant sand barPastel shadesDeep in thoughtYellow greenSea defenceNo entryDinner?It’s a windy coastSoft and pricklyJust the two of us
Day 9 – Middelburg to Nieuwpoort
Fishing bonanzaPolder MillHome for tonightOur neighbour for the evening
Day 10 – Nieuwpoort to Calais
Angry windFishing days gone byAssis!Bon chien!C’est parti!
Heading home
Ferry dockingOn deckWorkhorseLe drapeau tricoloreBig pipesHe knows the ropesSmoke stackBig hardwareTextured seaSteel meets seaBon voyageDet Forenede Dampskibs-SelskabPropeller churnVibrant portMaster of the skyEffortlessMaking flight look easyTime for workAu revoirWhen will I be back?LifeboatCandidI hope my inbox is manageable!
It was great to spend a night on the yacht with Wim and his dog Patu. Wim has sailed this yacht all over the world and has some amazing stories to tell.
Some photos of the day:
And finally made it back to Calais.
When in France…
Stats
Total time including stops: 7:56
Tomorrow I take the ferry back to Dover and then the train home.
A great day’s ride. Not as windy as yesterday. A bit overcast but good light for some atmospheric shots.
These storm surge barriers are impressive. They are about 9km long. Built between 1976 and 1986, they are the largest in The Netherlands.
The barrier was constructed in response to the North Sea flood of 1953, which devastated large parts of Zeeland, South Holland and North Brabant, much of which lies below sea level.
Stats.
Total time including stops: 9:02.
Today was my longest ride (it was actually 63 miles but the Garmin gave up 2.5 miles from the end)
The program this far today (3 hours in) has been rinse-dry-repeat.
Leaving Antwerp after picking up a new chain, following another broken link (note to self – put a new chain on your bike before going on a long trip).
Antwerp
The rinse-dry-repeat cycle continued all day but still managed to stop during the dry bits.
ZevenbergenDordrecht Even the pollution seems cleanerGreat cormorant
Not the best name for a trainer store!
Dortrecht in the evening…
These inland cargo vessels move with impressive speed along the rivers. A lot of them have a car on them, which I assume is for use when docked. There is a website that you can look up the details of each vessel by name. This one is 172 meters long:
Fewer stops today as I decided to get most of the miles behind me to beat the rain.
Antwerp has quite an industrial feel to it, particularly around the outskirts and to the north heading towards the sea. Lots of shipping.
However, it’s all so organised and clean. Fascinating to see. What amazes me is how many bicycles there are. There are cycle lanes everywhere and everyone obeys the rules including stopping at red lights even when there’s no traffic!
Did I mention the cycle lanes are amazing?
The road behind me is a cycle laneCycle lane next to a motorwayCycle lane next to a canal
Today I cycle the final 12 miles to John O’Groats, have a little cry, take a photograph and start my 3 day journey back to Inverness to take the overnight train back to London.
This day is for Samuel, who turns 22 today. Happy Birthday Samuel 🎂🎂🎂
A mountain of potatoes.
It’s official!
956 miles and 2 sets of brake pads since leaving home.
I’m saving my remaining 1 mm of brake pads for these hills tomorrow.
This man has just walked from Land’s End! He started on 8th May.
Skirza
Nice to be cycling with the wind 💨for a change.
I thought I would see more Highland cows, but these are the first ones I’ve seen.
I’m not sure if the person who wrote this was completely sober.
End of day 21. I’m staying in a place with a wonderful view over the ocean.
Tomorrow I make the final push northwards to a town called Tongue. I’m running out of dry land!
I have no idea how salmon get up here but they do.
Falls of ShinThe lonely tree
Loch Shin
The Wee Hoose
It’s so remote here.
Crask – part of the Flow Country
Made it to Tongue.
Today’s ride was an unforgettable journey through a beautifully wild and windswept wilderness.
Tomorrow I cycle about 50 miles in an easterly direction along the coast until Dunnet. It will be my last full day’s cycle before reaching John O’ Groats.
From Inverness the path leads northwards into increasingly remote areas. It’s a bit of a snaky route around the firths so not too much northwards progress but a fair distance overall.
Tonight I stay near Bonar Bridge.
Leaving Inverness this morning was interesting. The way north out of Inverness is over the Kessock Bridge and when I arrived there I was informed by way of a locked construction gate that the cycle path over the bridge was closed. The “diversion” offered was a 25 mile detour around the Beauly Firth. I didn’t take up that offer and took my chances instead on the road. Occupying the slow lane on a busy A road with no shoulder (no chance of stopping for a picture) in high winds and driving rain was fun.
I was glad to get over the bridge unscathed and even gladder when the rain eased fairly soon after.
This is the first thing of beauty I encountered after the bridge:
Under the A9
Cromarty Bridge in the distance crossing Cromarty Firth.
Very sad. Looks like mum and baby Badger hit by a car.
The beautiful remote Highlands.
There are miles and miles of conifer plantations as far as the eye can see in all directions. In the distance you can see a patch that’s been harvested.
It’s nice to see the odd patch where more natural growth is coming through.
Overlooking Dornoch Firth.
That’s day 18. Tomorrow I reach the North Atlantic Ocean!
A pair of red kites.
The view from outside my room this evening is very special.
Scotland’s forests are so spectacular. I’m so glad I’m on a bicycle because I can just stop anywhere I like to enjoy the scenery (and I’m doing a lot of stopping!)
This is a fish ladder at Pitlochry dam to allow salmon to bypass the dam as they swim upstream. Such a good idea.
I had to stop here for a wee dram.
That’s the end of day 15. A brilliant day, even though it was very wet.
My bike has been “rebooted”. No actual fault found. I have a few polite questions to ask Specialized, the first of which is why the diagnostics software is not available to consumers, but I’ll leave that until I return.
I’m doing some cycling today to make up for lost mileage but will need to take the train part way to Perth.
Tomorrow I resume my planned route.
Just cycled over the Forth road bridge. The railway bridge is one of my favourite man made structures. It’s so impressive up close.
Thank you for all the prayers and well wishes 🙏
It’s great to be out in the countryside again.
A conifer plantation (possibly Sitka spruce). They are so tightly packed that nothing else grows underneath. They almost look dead but the crowns are very healthy. They are grown for timber. From above the forest it almost looks like grass because they are so uniform.
That’s the end of day 14. Looking forward to resuming my planned route tomorrow.
An unplanned “rest day” in Edinburgh while I wait to get my bike looked at in the morning.
Some time to do a bit of bike maintenance, like cleaning and lubricating the chain ⛓️🧑🔧.
As someone wisely pointed out to me: the challenge I am facing brings an extra awareness of the challenges that the people we seek to serve at Tearfund encounter on a daily basis.
This challenge is so small compared to the problems they face. I have choices; I can catch a train, I can pay for an extra couple of nights stay, pay for my bike repair etc. Most of the people we serve have none of these choices. They certainly can’t pay their way out of their situation.
Cycling these long distances each day has also brought to mind the distances that some people have to travel each day, like Orbisa from Ethiopia who in the dry season has to walk up to 10 hours each day just to collect water for her family!
Today I will be cycling 20 miles to Carlisle with my faulty bike and then catching a train to Edinburgh, which is the nearest place north of here that has a bike shop that can diagnose the problem on the bike.
The earliest they can do so is Friday (after much arm twisting – originally it was a 2 week waiting period).
I will keep you posted on what happens next but as it stands the two options are:
The bike is fixed on Friday morning and I carry on 👍
The bike can’t be fixed in time (e.g. needs a part which is not in stock) and I have to abandon the ride and take the train back home 👎
I have completed 590 miles since Land’s End and have about 430 miles to John O’Groats, so well over half way. It will be such a shame if I’m not able to complete it.
I’ve arrived in Edinburgh. For those of a rugby persuasion, I’m staying across the road from here:
Today I cycle through the beautiful Lake District, starting from Kirkby Lonsdale, passing through Kendal, Windermere, Ambleside and then northwards along the length of Thirlmere reservoir, before heading east to the town of Greystoke.
The first “lake” this morning.
It’s a bit too early to start eating grass.
Random observation.
This is based on quality data gathered from my trip so far. Ladies (driving any vehicle) are by far the most courteous on the road. Men driving Land Rovers (especially those with tinted windows), are the least courteous.
Kent not so close.
Lake Windermere in the distance.
Problem.
One of my best days has turned into a bit of a nightmare. Just at the end of my ride my bike electrics started playing up. The bike has gone into some weird restricted mode. I’ve tried all the usual tricks but nothing works.
Tomorrow I’m going to cycle 20 miles to Carlisle with the bike limping along, and then take the train to Edinburgh where the bike is booked in for Friday. It’s the earliest they could do so I’m losing 2 days cycle.
Whether they can fix the bike or not will determine if I can carry on with the trip.
I will keep you posted.
Anyway, the lake District is heartakingly beautiful.
This is an exciting day ahead particularly because I meet up with Duncan for breakfast this morning. Duncan’s parents live nearby and I believe he’s visiting.
There is also a town nearby called Bacup which is a very appropriate place to meet a DBA.
Most of the day will be cycling through the Forest of Boland National Landscape which looks beautiful. I’m hoping the rain will only be light so that I can stop and enjoy the views.
I end the day in Kirkby Lonsdale.
It’s the actual sun!
The proof is in the pudding.
Duncan is a legend! Not only did he drive an hour to treat me for breakfast, but he also brought along a bicycle pump to top up my tires because my pump is about as effective as a wet paper straw. And he also put in a good word for me for the weather which has been perfect and not the day long rain predicted. Get a local to put a good word in for you! Bless you, Duncan.
What an amazing place.
Bowland
Mascepone (sorry couldn’t resist it)
There’s something biblical about this scene.
I love the mossy stone walls.
Home in a hedgerow.
Made it to Cumbria.
Random thoughts:
When you’re gasping for air at the top of a hill with your mouth open, it’s the most likely time that a fly will smack you in the back of the throat.
One of these chain links probably weighs a fair bit.
Traction engine drive chain
That’s day 10 completed. It was a perfect day for cycling. Not a drop of rain and stunning scenery.
It looks like I’m nearly level with the Isle of Man.
The next leg of the journey takes me around the outskirts of Manchester and ending up in Blackburn, so a bit of an urban feel to this day. I’m sure there will be some highlights in-between the showers!
Leftwich is my least favourite ‘wich’ so far, though it does have a nice viaduct.
Weaver Railway Viaduct
Not exactly a highlight, but it shows progress.
Bolton Station
Milestone: I’ve just passed 500 miles since leaving home.
Day 9 completed.
The second half was a lot wetter than the first so not many stop opportunities. It seems as if I’m not seeing much because of the rain, but I’m enjoying it nonetheless and I’m becoming better at managing being drenched. It definitely helps having a warm shower at the end.
Both Bolton and Blackburn look like nice towns and especially the ride over the hill between the two was very picturesque albeit drenching.
I can’t believe I’m further north than Manchester!
I end up in a place called Leftwich close to the river Weaver. Looking at the river on the map you can see how it got its name. Parts of it were apparently straightened in the 1700s to make it more navigable for canal boats.
I feel like this should be twinned with Newport in Wales. No data centre in site though.
Rainy days still providing picturesque scenes.
That was a tough day. Long and wet. Not many stopping opportunities as a result but the blue dot creeps northwards.